- First
disconnect kiln from power source.
- Remove
screws opposite side of hinges on control box. Swing box aside.
- Use
masking tape to label each feeder wire before you cut.
- I
would start at the top with # 1 and #2 for the first section.
#3 and #4 for the second and so on. Cut the element and feeder
wires from the connector and remove porcelain sleeve.
- Using
your needlenose and either a second pair (or a an eraser on
the tip of a pencil) remove the pins while firmly holding the
element in place. Pins can be stubborn and easily break out
a chunk of brick when pulling out the pins and or elements.
Note the angle of the pins and how they go through the coils.
The angle is to help hold the element down in the groove and
to keep it from moving as they heat and cool.
Also note the angle of the pigtail as you remove it from the
brick. The bottom pigtail has an angle where as the top pigtail
is straight.
- Insert
pigtail making sure you start with the short crimped section
(about an inch) in the bottom row of grooves in the brick you
are starting on. Try to keep each crimped space exactly in the
corners of the brick. You may need to let element hang over
the brick in some sections and then carefully push back in with
finger tips when element is fully in. Spend
as much time as you need gently running your needlenose over
the element in both directions attempting to adjust each corner
so it is properly lined up. Take special care around the terminal
brick; it will break easily.
- Now pin
element using only the special alloy pins included; (any other
kind of wire will destroy kiln and element). Remember positions
of pins as you remove them. Ideally pins should not be outside
the edge of the brick or inside the edge of the groove.
- OK
take a deep breath and a stretch. Carefully pull out bottom
pigtail while watching from the inside to make sure it does
not take any brick with it.
- Gently
bend pigtail so it is straight.
- Slide
porcelain sleeve over pigtail and cut pigtail about 5-16 of
an inch past sleeve; (you may need to hold pigtail so it does
not spring back). You will need quite a bit of pressure to make
a good dimple crimp. Make the crimp on the smooth side of connector
as opposed to the seemed side. Be careful not to move the pigtail
too much as it could expand the hole through the brick.
-
The snugger
the hole the better. The strands on the feeder wire should
be clean and bright, a little under an inch so you can double
over and insert into the connector up to the center. Do your
dimple crimp and make sure there is no slippage when you twist
the connector. Recheck all your connections and close up control
box. Turn on your kiln and observe elements to make sure they
turn orange evenly.
|
My
elements will not smoke like the factory elements because I do not use
any oils or cutting agents like most factory element coiling machines
use.
Good luck with all your artistic endeavors, and remember the second
time will be much easier.
Thank You!
Stan Horton
Kiln Elements
|
Kiln Tips and Hints
|
- Vacuming
your kiln will lengthen the life of the elements.
- Use
two needlenose pliers when removing old elements.
- Use
one to hold the elements and one to extract the pin.
- When
installing new pre-formed elements, keep each crimp of the element
as close to the corners as possible.
- Lightly
run the needlenose pliers over the top of the element in either
direction attempting to lay down and slightly move the crimps
exactly into the corners of the kiln.
- Take
special care around the terminal brick.
- Element
Pins can only be made from special alloy wire. Major damage
can result from Homemade pins.
|
|